We appreciate your patience and understanding during this time. NOTE: Wicks Forge is moving! We won't be offering personalizations during this transition period. This gives a nice silvery finish, which is sealed with a wax coating. Once the forging is completed, most of the scale is removed through wire brushing the surface. When steel is heated and worked a dark material called scale forms on the surface of the metal. If you select the personalized option, please enter the personalization info in the notes section when checking out.įorging is the process of heating metal to increase its malleability and then working it in various ways, often with a hammer and anvil. They can be personalized with a set of initials, a name, or a short message up to 10 letters. Since each letter opener is handmade, they may vary in size- however this means your piece is guaranteed to be one-of-a-kind. These are small letter openers as they measure about 8 inches long. Of course, you could always take the chance.These elegant letter openers are hand forged and are detailed with a wrapped loop on the end.Įach letter opener is finished in a combination of linseed oil, beeswax, and turpentine, which leaves a smooth dark finish on the piece. Plain ole boiled linseed oil will rarely pass this test, no matter how long it has been drying or polymerizing. Not to mention the surprise your cabinet maker will have when he gets black streaks on his brand new oak cabinets when he hangs yer hinges and pulls. 2 Normative references The following documents are referred to in the text in such a way that some or all of their content constitutes requirements of this document. This process is clean enough that when their daughter is promanading down the stairs with her dainty white gloved hand on yer cap, her glove will stay white. This document specifies the requirements and the corresponding test methods for five types of linseed stand oil suitable for paints and varnishes. My final step is to buff it with a carnuba based wax like tree wax, johnsons paste wax,or a good carnuba baded car wax. It also starts a burnishing process that's a plus. This removes any and all forge/oil/ or just plain "gradoo" from your work. Add more as needed.Īfter applying either, my next step is to clean my work with denatured alcohol. Keep your container closed as the japan dryer will evaporate. It takes very little time to "wipe on/wipe off this finish. The japan dryer is a drying agent and if you are doing a 10' rail, it will be dry and ready for another coat by the time you get back to the beginning. For a padte instead of a liquid, add more beeswax.įor a cold finish, substitute the beeswax for "a healthy pour" of japan dryer. The turps thins the blo and is pretty important as far as I'm concerned. When it smokes off and leaves your iron black, its the right temp. I Mix Blo/turps 50/50 and if I use a quart of each, about a walnut size piece of beeswax. It is too riskey due to the long time needed for drying or polemerizing.įor a good traditional finish, I use blo, turpentine, and beeswax. I never use straight boiled linseed oil for a finish. If the rags in my wax can combust it can't go anywhere it's a sealed can. I don't remember so I don't keep any oily rags or brushes. I don't recall if it's the boiled or unboiled that can spontaneously combust on it's own over time. Nice thin coat on the piece and the rag is ready again.ĭon't allow rags with boiled linseed oil to collect, they are a serious fire hazard. If they get too dry I dip the warm piece in the can, it gets drippy coated and I wipe it off with the rag. wipe off the excess, I keep a couple rags in the can of wax, they carry plenty to finish. The main difference is how long you have to wait. I still like Trewax it's a strong penetrant when applied to a hot surface and cools to a hard finish that won't wipe off. Maybe Thomas will tell us how long it's been around. Folks recommend it because it works well and has done so from times of old. As Jennifer says it's a penetrant and gets in everything, especially if applied to a warm surface. Boiled linseed oil polymerizes and makes a hard finish.
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